One of the best ways to increase the resale value of your home is through the kitchen, and a great way to achieve dramatic results at a low cost is by replacing the old, outdated laminate countertops of the 1970s and 1980s. There are several new options on the market today that can give your kitchen the face-lift it deserves. Three such materials are concrete, tile and soapstone. All can be installed with relative ease by the average to skilled handyman.
A Solid Choice
Concrete is probably the most involved choice out of the three countertop materials, but you won't be disappointed with the end result. The main advantage of concrete is that it allows you to be very creative in design and color choice. Also, because molds are built to cast the material, you can design a variety of edges and shapes to create a look that is either organic or more static and sterile. In addition, the material comes in colors and textures that mimic the look of more expensive materials, such as granite or marble. Concrete is also very stain and water-resistant. Although concrete is heat tolerant, it is not recommended that you place direct heat on the surface. This is primarily because the heat can damage and discolor the sealer. In addition, you should not cut directly on the concrete surface because it could damage the sealer, as well as dull your kitchen knives. As for the maintenance of concrete, you should avoid abrasive soaps and cleansers and opt for a mild, non-abrasive non-ammoniated soap. If you feel concrete is the choice for you, the product can be fabricated and installed by following these basic instructions: After measuring the area that will receive the new surface, the next step is to build a form. The form should be constructed from 3Z4 inch thick melamine coated particle-board. The coating will make it easier to disassemble the form, preventing sticking, and it will also help the concrete dry more slowly to achieve its desired hardness. The forms should be joined at the sides and bottom with drywall screws or a pneumatic stapler. You should reinforce every six inches along the sides; pre-drilling is recommended. At this stage you should also keep in mind that you can't cut or drill the slab after it is built, so you should create voids for sinks, ranges and faucets. The voids can be crafted from exterior plywood blockouts with the particleboard. The blockouts should be the same height as the sides so the concrete can be screeded level with the top of the form. Attach them to the bottom of the form with screws.
Once your form is built, the next phase is to mix and pour the concrete. The strength of the concrete countertop will depend on how the mixture is prepared. It is also important to fortify the slab with diamond lath, reinforcing rod and polypropylene fibers. The diamond lath should be cut with aviation snips so that it stops one inch short of the form and blockouts' edges after it is installed. Number three 3/8-inch thick rebar should be used around sink cutouts; remember to measure and cut the rebar before you mix the concrete in order to minimize time between steps, ensuring each batch ticks properly to the next. To keep the look seamless, the consistency and color of each batch should be the same. The concrete should be damp enough to be formed into a ball. The dry mixture should be blended thoroughly using a mason's hoe. After the mix is blended, add the liquid ingredients (latex additive, pigment and water) in small amounts until they are all absorbed. It is also smart to add two quarts of white Portland cement per 60-pound bag of concrete for added strength. Fiber-free concrete should be used for all the exposed surfaces, while poly-fiber-reinforced concrete should be used for the core of the slab. A small amount of regular concrete should be packed about an inch thick around the edges. The middle can then be filled with re-enforced concrete, and the diamond lath and reinforcing rods can be added. Finish up with a full layer of regular concrete. The mixture should then be tamped with a magnesium float and packed tightly. After that, use the float to work the concrete to a desired smoothness.
Remember, some people prefer a rough finish rather than a smooth one. If low spots appear, just add more concrete as needed. Remove any pieces of aggregate that appear. After the form is filled, screed the surface with a two-inch square metal channel that is about 18 inches longer than the form. The concrete should set for about two hours after which the surfaces should be troweled with a steel trowel. Don't over work the concrete; this will cause weakening. If water begins to puddle, let the slab rest and repeat the procedure in 30 minutes. After the concrete is dry, release the forms by separating the joints with a prybar. The blockouts should be unscrewed but not removed unless you are installing an under-mount sink and need to finish the edges. At this point, any rough spots can be sanded. Next, use a one-ounce-per-gallon solution of muriatic acid and water to etch the surface. If you chose a pigmented concrete, the acid will make the color and texture more prominent. Rinse with water after applying. After the countertop has air-dried, mix Portland cement, a latex additive and liquid pigment to the consistency of peanut butter.
Next, skiff the surfaces with a rubber grout float. After the filler has dried and cured, sand it with a 180-grit paper until you reach the desired smoothness. To install the newly finished concrete countertop, just apply a narrow bead of adhesive or silicone caulk to the top edges of the cabinet base and then set the top. Once the top is in place, cut the blockouts into pieces with a jigsaw and remove them. The exposed surfaces of the slab should then be sealed with a concrete sealing product to prevent the surface from staining and minimize cleanup. When the sealer is dry, buff the surface with a Scotchbrite pad and apply a clear acrylic finish, such as Minwax Polycrylic.
Tile Toppers
Ceramic tile is another option for updating a tired kitchen, and, if you are an old pro at installing it, this should be a simple weekend project. Tile is a great option for countertops because hot pots and pans can be placed directly on the surface without fear of damaging it. In addition, it is moisture tolerant, and cleanup is relatively easy when it comes to the products that can be used. However, food can 'disappear' between grout lines and although you can seal the grout, it still has a tendency to stain. Still there is plenty of room for creativity with the many colors, shapes and textures of tile available.
One aspect that makes tiling a simpler option is that it can be laid over old tile or over plastic laminate countertops. If you are creating an entirely new surface, backer-board or exterior-grade plywood can be used as backing. As mentioned earlier, tile is a great way to create a one-of-a-kind look. To spruce things up a bit, more expensive dimensional or hand-painted tiles can be intermixed with a cheaper, basic tile for a more decorative look. If you really want to get creative, there is even the option of painting the tiles yourself, creating a truly custom feel. After selecting the type of tile you'd like, it is important not to forget to order edge, trip tiles, sink caps, quarter rounds and backsplash tiles.
The best way to begin laying out the tile is to find the center point of the countertop. Next, lay out the tiles along the edge so you will know whether or not they need to be moved half a width so there won't be less than half a tile on the ends. At this point, it is also a good idea to go ahead and see how the tiles will lay around the sink. Mark each tile, and then set it aside.
Setting the tile should be done in stages: The edge pieces should be set before you spread the adhesive for the field tiles. Butter the backs of the tiles with the adhesive and then set them into place. The sink trim should be laid next, unless you have an over-mount sink. Before setting the sink trim, be sure to caulk between the sink and plywood backing. After the trim pieces have been installed, it is time to lay the field tiles; you should work from front to back, starting at either the center or the sides of the sink and working to the ends. Keep in mind that you may have to cut some of the tiles.
The last stage is the backsplash. These tiles are placed directly on top of the backfield tiles and then adhered to the wall. Remember to caulk the joint between the backfield and backsplash tiles after grouting. After the tiles have set, it is time to grout. An epoxy grout is recommended to help resist stains. To apply the grout, use a rubber-faced float. Wipe the grout on the surface of the tile, spreading and forcing the mixture into the joints so they are completely filled. Next, scrape away the excess by wiping in a diagonal motion across the tiles with your float. Once the surface is relatively clean, wipe it with a damp sponge to remove anything that remains. Continue to wipe the surface clean until the sponge water runs clear when wrung out.
Quick Fix
Soapstone countertops are a great option for those who want a more modern look but don't have the time to dedicate to the above projects. Soapstone is a new, innovative look that basically requires you to select the color and pattern you like and then install it. With its wide variety of colors and patterns, soapstone is a good alternative that gives you a customized look. One advantage of using soapstone is that it's aesthetically pleasing like granite and marble, but it is much more affordable. Soapstone is very durable and dense and is not affected by acids or alkalis, which can etch marble and granite. However, this natural material can stain more easily than other surfaces. When cleaning soapstone it is best to use a non-abrasive cleanser, opting for something such as a low PH antibacterial vegetable-based soap. You can make an effective stain fighter out of cornstarch and 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Spread the paste on the stain and then cover in plastic wrap. Let the stain sit for a few hours, and then rinse off the paste.
You can order your slabs pre-cut, or you can cut them yourself. For the hard-core do-it-yourselfers, cutting and finishing isn't really all that difficult. Slabs can be cut with a masonry blade or circular saw. After cutting, the edges can be finished by hand with sandpaper or with a belt sander. When purchasing the stone, ask the retailer what grit paper they recommend for the stone you've selected. If you really want to get creative, a carbide bit and router can be used to shape the edges in different styles. When it comes to cutting out voids for sinks and ranges, a jigsaw and drill can be used. Setting the material is simple. Just use a silicone or panel adhesive to set the counters and a stone epoxy to seal the joints. Once the slabs are in place, seal the entire area. The best product for soapstone is mineral oil. Initially, you should oil the surfaces frequently, until they stop darkening, and then every six months after that. Each surface has its advantages and disadvantages, so for a truly customized kitchen choose materials and patterns that suit your needs and budget. Whatever your choice or material, the end result will most definitely be dramatic.
by
Winn Harris
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